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Published On: Jul 24, 2005 12:06 PM
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Bahia Ensueño
There were several streams running down from the
small island, and they were fed solely from the rain the night before (the next
morning they had dried up).
...He told
us all stories about how Costa Rica looks nice from the outside, and the
tourists see the beautiful environmental parks, but there are some big problems
that might wreck it all.
We passed by this bay, which is in the Islas
Murcielagos, on our way down from Bahia Santa Elena to Cocos because the wind
was blowing right into the anchorage. Today as we came around the corner, there
were four boats in the anchorage, a large power boat that is some kind of
research vessel, Sula, Ocean Rider, and Romancin' the Zea. We stopped and spent
the afternoon exploring the
shore.Apparently there was much rain
the night before. There were several streams running down from the small island,
and they were fed solely from the rain the night before (the next morning they
had dried up).
We
snorkeled and lounged around in one of the larger streams. Then we headed down
the beach toward the ranger station. There was a young guy there swimming in the
water. We snorkeled a little more and then went into shore. Roma went over to
talk to the man we thought might be a ranger, and he
was.His name was Diego, and he had
been alone on the island (without any way off) for the last two months. He was a
really nice guy, about 25 years old. He knew only a few words in English, so we
had lots of practice talking Spanish to him. He told us about the tropical dry
forest, how the climate is completely different in the dry season (we're in wet
season now), and how much of the forest had been decimated to make grazing lands
for cattle. Now the land here is a national park and has been for the last 10
years, but you can still see the imprint of past
grazing.We invited Diego out to the
boat for dinner, and he took us all up to the ranger station to show us around.
The building is a large house-looking structure that from the outside appears to
be boarded up. But in reality, it has opaque sun shades and is quite nice
inside. The only source of electricity for the station is a couple of solar
panels with our same ProStar M-30 solar regulator attached to a couple of 8-D
batteries. There is a small TV, a VHF radio, and some weather measuring
equipment, and not much
else. One
of the primary jobs of the ranger at the station is to record meteorological
data daily: temperatures, rainfall, wind velocity, etc. The night before we
arrived, there was 24 inches of rain! That's why the streams were running
well.As everyone else went back down
to the beach, Diego and I walked up to the top of the island to look at the
view. Up there was the anemometer, and some spectacular views of the Bay of
Papagayo and a beautiful natural arch called El Puerto de Iglesia (the door of
the church).
We
picked up Diego about 1830 and he came out for hors-devours and drinks aboard
Trinity with Sula visiting. He told us all stories about how Costa Rica looks
nice from the outside, and the tourists see the beautiful environmental parks,
but there are some big problems that might wreck it all. For one thing, the
political bodies are quite corrupt and the people in power are not very
responsible, especially toward funding parklands and the eco-tourism activities
that go along with them. Another major problem is that there are not enough jobs
for everyone who wants to work. According to Diego, the best thing Costa Rica
has going for it is that it didn't have bloody civil war in its recent past like
all the other Central American
countries.We had an excellent dinner
and more great conversation.
Diego hopes to
get to Santa Monica at some point to see a girl friend who lives there. He
thinks he has only two more days on the island before he gets to transfer over
to the volcano park. But things change and he might get stuck here for a few
more days or even weeks.As we were
talking, he said that he was at this station last year in July, and there
weren't many boats. But one boat came in, and it was Amorita! Our friends on
Amorita stopped here for a couple or three days. Diego remembers because he
writes in a log the names and hailing ports of the boats that stop here. Also,
he met Kimberley, Nathaniel, Joel, and Richelle and remembers them because they
gave him a piece of chocolate cake! (If the Amorita crew is reading this, Diego
says "Hi" and says you might remember him because he gave you the caracol
blanco.) What a small world! We had a few laughs about that
one.We finally said goodnight about
2130 and I took him back to the beach. We had a great time and are really glad
that we've learned some Spanish to communicate. It has been worth
it!
Posted: Fri - July 1, 2005 at 11:30 AM
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